Should i plant winter rye




















We teach, learn, lead and serve, connecting people with the University of Wisconsin, and engaging with them in transforming lives and communities. Connect with your County Extension Office ». Find an Extension employee in our staff directory ». Facebook Twitter. Feedback, questions or accessibility issues: info extension. Planting specifications Seeding rate: Seed rye for cover at lbs per-acre; lbs per acre for early spring forage. Sharing is Caring - Click Below to Share.

In fields where they have not been grown before, legume cover crops should be inoculated with the proper Rhizobium bacteria to be sure that root nodules are formed and nitrogen fixation takes place.

A mixture of hairy vetch plus rye can produce a lot of biomass that can enhance soil quality while providing a significant amount of nitrogen to a subsequent crop. If a fine seedbed is needed the following spring, it may be better to mix hairy vetch with oats, which winter kill in northern locations, since there will be less plant residue to deal with than will be the case with mature rye stems Allelopathic Effects.

Cereal rye produces several compounds in its plant tissues and releases root exudates that apparently inhibit germination and growth of weed seeds. These allelopathic effects, together with cereal rye's ability to smother other plants with cool weather growth, make it an ideal choice for weed control. However, allelopathic compounds may suppress germination of small-seeded vegetable crops as well if they are planted shortly after the incorporation of cereal rye residue.

Large-seeded crops and transplants rarely are affected. There is some evidence that the amount of allelopathic compounds in tillering plants is lower than in seedlings.

Rye for No-Till. Because it leaves a lot of residue on the soil surface, no-till rye can be an effective way to avoid erosion and help control weeds. Mowing or using a burn-down herbicide are two common methods of killing a rye cover crop for no-till plantings. To kill rye by mowing, it should be done at flowering when the anthers are extended, and pollen falls from the seed heads when shaken. If mowing is done earlier, the rye simply grows back.

Studies are underway looking at rolling instead of mowing as a means of physically killing winter rye. When rye is left as a surface mulch it is difficult if not impossible to manage escaped weeds with mechanical cultivation. Thus, a poor no-till cover may be worse than no mulch at all in terms of weed management. Annual rye creates a thick barrier of living vegetation as it grows. One that snuffs out existing weeds, and keeps new weeds seeds from ever finding a home in bare soil.

It is one of the major reasons we spend little time ever weeding our garden — and one we are quite thankful for! In mid to late fall, as our vegetable plants begin to fade, we clear our growing rows to plant our annual rye cover crop.

All you will need is a simple tine rake, and of course, annual rye seed. To begin, we rake each row to slightly scratch the soil surface. Next we spread seeds on the row as if we were planting grass seed. We then gently rake the soil to help set the seed a bit. There is no need at this point to full cover the seed, just light rake over. Within 7 days, the rye starts to poke its bright green blades through the surface.

Within a few weeks, the raised growing rows are completely covered in a thick mass of bright green turf. As the cold sets in, the rye goes into a dormancy stage. Then, when spring returns, the rye does as well. As it grows in early March, we begin to mow it off every week or two. The clippings are either mulched into the beds to add organic matter, or we bag them to put in our compost bin.

After a few mowings, the rye begins to die off. We then plant right through the surface. No tilling.



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